Methods to Make the Most of Greece’s Shoulder Season, In response to Condé Nast Traveler Specialists

This is part of Off Season Greece, a collection of guides highlighting the year-round appeal of Greece’s most popular destinations, courtesy of our favorite local tastemakers. In this edition, we speak to Condé Nast Traveler’s Top Travel Specialists about how to decide which off-season destination in Greece for you. As we continue to spread the good word of traveling outside of summer—peak season for most destinations, but most of all European—let us convince you that this advice is especially prescient for Greece, which is also magical in late fall, winter (skiing, anyone?), and early spring.

But you might ask, how do you even travel to Greece in the off season? This country of many island groups, from Aegean to Ionian, is not just to be experienced at its peak in the summer, when ferries are run to and fro, and your social feed becomes awash with selfies from white-plastered Mykonos. Nay—Όχι! For reasons climate- and crowd-related, certain sides of Greece shine brighter when the brutal Grecian sun lets up and Zeus’s calming clouds roll in, when you actually have breathing room at the Parthenon and can even potentially commune with Athena herself in the soft winter light of Athens.

Or, hey, why not just take advantage of the cheaper hotel rates and airfare while most families are wrapped up at school? For these reasons and more, locals and in-the-know visitors know that, in Hellas, “off season” truly means “game on.”
To learn what it takes to make the most out of the off season, we tapped some of our favorite Condé Nast Traveler Top Travel Specialists who are experts on visiting Greece: Julie Durso of Scott Dunn, Lisa Kusak of Kusak & Co., Emily Rister of Original Travel, and Laura Plansky of Audley Travel.

Here they tell us the pros of visiting

Here they tell us the pros of visiting outside of summer, where to take a city break, and what to pack so that you’re prepared for your own off-season odyssey to Greece. Why you should visit Greece in the off season
After an entirely too-hot Eurosummer this year (every year now, it seems), the pros of visiting Greece in the cooler off season have never been more evident. “Visiting off season is perfect for avoiding crowds and the heat,” says Rister of Original Travel.

“Generally, Greece can be quite mild, even in winter, so it’s still pleasant to visit and be out and about exploring. Cultural sites are much quieter and you don’t have to book restaurants weeks in advance.” Rister also says that hotel rates massively drop at this time of year, outside of the peak summer travel months, so the off season is a chance to experience luxurious properties for a fraction of the cost.

Beyond the weather and value-for-money factor, Kusak of Kusak & Co. says there’s a human element too: “In the off season you find a certain authenticity. With fewer people present, you can get a real connection with the local community—the pace is gentler for everyone.” To top it off, the off season is perhaps the best time for foodie travelers, given the bounty of the winter harvest.

The olive harvest runs from November into December,

“The olive harvest runs from November into December, and some estates will welcome visitors to watch or take part,” Kusak explains. “Citrus season follows in the Peloponnese and Crete, when the orange and lemon groves are at their most vibrant.”
Of course, no rose is without its thorns: many establishments in Greece do close for the winter, and it’s not exactly prime time for beachgoers—so be sure to calibrate your expectations to cultural and culinary adventures.

“It’s not the peak season for swimming and boating, if guests have that as a priority,” says Durso of Scott Dunn. While there are locales where restaurants remain open year-round thanks to universities and locals (Athens, Corfu, and Crete among them) it depends where you are: “Many restaurants will also begin closing for the season, so I tend to recommend resorts with restaurants on property, so guests don’t feel like they’re missing out” if the small tavernas, cafés, and bakeries are shuttered until the spring.

The cultural and culinary prowess of Greece in the off season
First, the culture and history buffs will greatly appreciate Greece in the off season, Planksy says, because fewer people crowd the main tourist sites and the sun isn’t beating down on travelers as aggressively. Lines are shorter, and there’s more room to breathe in museums and at archaeological locations like the Acropolis or the Agora in Athens.

Plus you’ll be able to relish the hike

Plus you’ll be able to relish the hike up to the Parthenon without melting in the heat. Of course don’t just waltz in anywhere without tickets or reservations—traveling in the off season still requires the usual due diligence as a traveler. You’ll just have less competition for tables at the best restaurants in Athens. “This time of year is also great for guests who are excited to interact more with locals in the small towns,” Durso says, “those who prefer a relaxed pace rather than enduring crowded tourist areas during high season.” Whether you go to romantic Nafplio in the Peloponnese with its neoclassical mansions or seaside Galaxidi with its cobblestoned alleys, locals will be pleasantly surprised to see out-of-towners passing through, happy for your business and company in the off-season.

As Kusak puts it, the off season in Greece is for “someone who wants authenticity and a genuine connection to the place, rather than just boat days and beaches.” There’s no shame in wanting boat days and beaches, of course—we at Traveler love partying and seaside time when we go to Greece too. But just know that if that’s what you’re looking for, summer really is your best bet, Durso says, when all the restaurants and beach clubs are open.

How to do it: practical tips
When visiting Greece in the off season, one of the first things we need to talk about is the climate. “As the weather starts to shift, you get more wind and cooler evenings,” says Durso. “So it’s important to pack layers,” like lightweight sweaters, linen that you can wear on top of each other, a rain jacket, maybe a little bit of cashmere while you’re at it.

Take it from me: Even in May

Take it from me: Even in May of this year on Corfu, I found myself reaching for my denim jacket more than once, even on a beach day. The next thing to be mindful of is the country’s schedule, from the timetables for ferries to the opening hours of restaurants, tourist and archaeological sites, and even whole islands. “Ferry schedules are reduced in the off season and the weather is more likely to impact those journeys,” says Plansky.

Don’t go to Greece in the off-season hoping for the typical island-hopping style vacation, because many of the smaller islands close between November to April. “So it’s better to explore the mainland of Greece and some of the bigger islands like Crete, Corfu, and Santorini during that time,” she says. And double check with your hotel if they’ll be open during your visit.

Chances are that a hotel won’t accept your booking if they see that you’re in town when they’re not, but it never hurts to be sure. “It is worth planning around what is genuinely open rather than where you want to go on the map,” Kusak says. “This is where I lean on my team in Greece. They know which properties are running, which restaurants stay open through the winter, and where a January afternoon is best spent.

It isn’t information you can always find online,

It isn’t information you can always find online, and it changes from year to year.”
Are you, conveniently enough, hoping to spend a January afternoon in Greece? “A January afternoon in Athens is best spent on foot,” Kusak asserts. “I’d wander a few of the neighborhoods—Plaka, Monastiraki, Thisio, Kolonaki—just to get a feel for how the city lives, pausing at a small shop for a warm koulouri or a slice of spanakopita along the way.

Then the Acropolis, which in the off-season is blissfully unhurried. With the crowds thinned, there’s room to take it in properly.”
Where (else) to go in Greece in the off season
In the off season, while many places in some smaller islands and destinations may “shut down,” Greece does not close uniformly. Athens, the rest of the mainland, and many of the larger islands carry on much as usual.

In addition to Athens, Corfu, Crete, Santorini, and Paros—as recommended by locals we admire and trust—our Top Travel Specialists also gave their own additional recommendations for where to go in Greece in the off season: Thessaloniki and the Peloponnese. Thessaloniki: Culinary heritage on the Thermaic Gulf
Waterfront Thessaloniki is designated a UNESCO City of Gastronomy, with a dining scene informed by a long history as a crossroads of ancient and modern trade.

Given its position in Northern Greece, Thessaloniki has

Given its position in Northern Greece, Thessaloniki has played host to Greeks, Ottoman Turks, Sephardic Jews, Armenians, and Slavs for centuries, resulting in meals and dishes that pull influences from all over the continent. And because Thessaliniki is also the second largest city in Greece, it has more in common with Athens schedule-wise and stays open even after the summer is over.

Kusak has two restaurant recommendations: “For something traditional, I suggest The Rouga. It’s a good place to share meze and a few Greek classics. For a quieter, more polished evening, there’s Olympos Naoussa inside the ON Residence, a Small Luxury Hotels of the World hotel. It sits in a restored heritage building overlooking the Thermaic Gulf, and suits a special occasion or a last-night-before-we-go-home dinner.” As for where to stay, Rister often books clients at The Modernist Thessaloniki set in a 1920s heritage building; The Excelsior, just a block away from the harbor; and Electra Palace Thessaloniki, a grande dame on Aristotelous Square.

When it comes to cultural excursions, Rister recommends a walking tour of the city with a private guide—“Great for fans of Alexander the Great.” and a day trip to Vergina, home to the tomb of Philip II of Macedon, Alexander the Great’s father. Rister at Original Travel can help put these offerings together for those who are keen. The Peloponnese: Homeric outdoor adventure
In lieu of the typical Greek islands vacay, a road trip that traces the coast of the rugged and mountainous Peloponnese peninsula could scratch that itch to be near some water, as long as you’re okay with the fact that it may be too cold to go in.

Kusak recommends a few seaside towns

Kusak recommends a few seaside towns in the Peloponnese: “On a rocky islet just off the coast, Monemvasia is a medieval town you reach almost by surprise, where you can wander the cobbled streets and stay in one of the restored stone houses,” she says. “And Pylos gathers around a waterfront square and an old natural harbor. It’s the way into the Costa Navarino resort area, with its beaches, golf, and resorts, though Pylos holds its own quiet history and lends itself to a slower coastal stay.”
Kusak also recommends Nafplio for its proximity to Athens—under two hours apart by car—and the beautiful Venetian architecture in the area, souvenirs from when Venice held trading posts in Greece.

Plansky also loves to send travelers to Nafplio: “It has a little bit of everything—history, culture, coastal beauty, plenty of food and wine. And there are some fantastic sites nearby including Mycenae, Epidavros, Ancient Corinth, and the Nemea wineries that are easy day trips.”
Where to stay
If you’re a fiend for a good hotel, Durso recommends Amanzoe, considered by Aman junkies to be one of the brand’s very best properties.

“Plus it stays open through the second week of November, offering a luxurious option at sometimes less than half its peak-season rates,” Durso says. Conveniently it’s also close to villages like Nafplio and historic sites like Mycenae. “Another lovely property is Kinsterna in Monemvasia, a boutique hotel with fantastic farm-to-table cuisine,” Durso says. And for those seeking quiet, Rister suggests an easy-going stay in some of the most relaxing spa hotels in the Peloponnese for some true rest—Euphoria Retreat in Mystras and Manna Arcadia.

The former is a wellness retreat located near epic Sparta and the UNESCO-listed Archaeological Site of Mystras, or castro (fortress), for those who like their relaxation with a side of historic adventure; the latter is surrounded by moody fir forests ideal for hiking, giving it the feel of a remote getaway. “They can be easily combined with a city break in Athens at any time of the year,” Rister says.

Source: www.cntraveler.com